NB:: THE CASE FOR THIS WATCH, AS SHIPPED IN Q1 2017, IS A HARD-COATED (EPOXY?) RESIN MATERIAL. THE CASE IS *NOT* MADE OF TITANIUM, THE CASE BACK IS STAINLESS STEEL. ONLY THE WRISTBAND IS TITANIUM. That caveat aside, my ProTrek PRW-3500T-7CR (Module 3134) is an emergency replacement for a tragically and irretrievably lost PathFinder PAG70-T (Module 2872). [While the PAG70-T has no Atomic Clock sync capabilities, what it has, in spades, is a very sharp looking, "dressy" appearance, as great looking with any suit as with any wilderness survival loadout. The PAG70-T's case is Titanium-clad-over-resin, with a stainless steel back and titanium wristband; no rotating outer bezel (which I have no need for), At the time of loss, my PAG70-T was still going as strong as Day One on it's original CTL1616 solar recharged battery. Even though the built-in calendar was due to expire in 2039, I was only going to cross that bridge in 2040, The countdown timer has final 1min, 50sec, 40sec, 30sec, 20sec, 10sec then 1sec interval warning beeps before the final countdown chime. If left uncancelled, the countdown timer would automatically lap and repeat the original countdown. I found that to be an unbelievably useful countdown feature. All PAG70-T alarms are clearly audible across a reasonably quite room and/or under a jacket sleeve. I seriously miss that PAG70-T. For all that I put it through, not a single scratch or nick anywhere on it.] On paper, the PRW-3500T-7CR out-classes the PAG70-T's specs. Atomic clock sync (which works every time for me, on a daily basis, some 2000kM from Fort Collins, with a "L1" signal strength, as reported by the watch). Built-in calendar through 2099. 200M static water resistance. So-called "V3" triple sensors. Etc. But I'm still getting used to the PRW-3500T-7CR, and I'm not quite as impressed with it as I hoped to be. The alarms on the PRW-3500T-7CR are surprisingly and disappointingly WEAK. A covering jacket or other thick sleeve is more than enough to smother these weak alarms. The countdown timer has no final minute intermediate chimes and cannot be set to auto-lap when left uncancelled. Alarm durations are 10 seconds, at best, and are not configurable for longer notifications. One of the five daily alarms is a "snooze" alarm that repeats at intervals for 30 minutes. But what good is a snooze alarm if you can't hear it? I'm forced for the time being to wear my PRW-3500T-7CR on my right wrist. For some reason, after several reference temperature calibrations, the V3 thermometer gives closer to actual room temperature readings, while uncovered wrist worn, than the PAG70-T; typically less than 5 degrees Farenheit warmer than ambient air temp. Sleeve cover will obviously skew wrist worn temperatures higher than ambient room, due to confined body heat.. The V3 compass is very accurate when compared with GPS readings and the PRW-3500T-7CR compass can be calibrated (by 1 degree increments) for declination (the PAG70-T has no compensation for declination). The V3 barometer is reasonably accurate following a 12-day series of daily calibration check/settings at constant reference altitude. The V3 altimeter is surprisingly and sometimes wildly inaccurate when compared with GPS, even more so than the older PAG70-T. I am seriously doubting that any amount of altimeter calibration is going to achieve more accurate readings, but I am optimistically still continuing with once daily calibration checks at reference altitude. Sunrise and sunset times are highly accurate, once longitude and latitude are manually and correctly entered into Settings. This is not the same as merely setting the Time Zone, unless you happen to actually be located in one of the preset Time Zone cities. My PRW-3500T-7CR illuminates very evenly across its face in a dark room, even though there is only a single light source, eminating from the left side of the watch face, If your's doesn't illuminate evenly across the entire watch face, then you may have a lemon worthy of prompt return/replacement. The PRW-3500T-7CR is significantly larger than the PAG70-T, which may present problems for smaller wrist sizes. I had to remove four (4) wristband links, two on each side of the locking clasp, in order to achieve a functionally comfortable fit. WRISTBAND ADJUSTMENT NB:: Each link pin of the titanium wrist band is retained in place by a single 1mm diameter split "clinch barrel ring" that too readily slips in and out of the one "receiver" side of the short prong of each link (when disassembled). When fully and properly assembled, the link pin passes through this tight clinch barrel ring and the clinch barrel ring prevents the link pin from sliding out of the wristband (preventing band failure) by sheer friction with the link pin. What is not immediately apparent to an inattentive observer is that the link pin also holds the clinch barrel ring in its proper place, between wrist band links. Once a wristband link pin is removed, THAT CLINCH BARREL RING WILL *IMMEDIATELY* FALL OUT OF PLACE AND CAN BE VERY EASILY LOST. I know of absolutely no source for replacement clinch barrel rings for this wristband. When I disassembled my wrist band, I did so over a reasonably large disassembly tray (18inx18in), with a surrounding raised lip edge (1") and a non-bounce white tray liner. As each link pin was carefully removed (observing the directional arrows engraved on the wrist-side of each removable lnk), using only the force absolutely necessary and a proper pin removal tool, I could see the TINY clinch barrel ring fall onto the tray liner (and then set it aside for safekeeping). When reassembling shortened links, I had to use needle tip tweezers to place the clinch barrel ring back into the RECEIVER SIDE of the stub link, oriented UPWARDS toward me, so that *gravity* would hold it temporarily in place. Then I used a positionable vice grip to hold the two links together, while I reinserted the link pin, through the links and the clinch barrel ring. The vice grip temporarily held the links together in-place, such that I could rotate the band, with the clinch ring now facing downward, as I gently drove the link pin back into place from above. This was the least tricky and most first-try successful way to adjust the length of the wrist band. Should you decide to adjust your own wrist band, whatever you do, do not lose the clinch barrel rings. Without them, the link pins will fall out and you will have band failure. The only durable and reasonable kludge for a lost clinch barrel ring would be "red"-grade (permanent) ThreadLock on BOTH sides of a fully inserted link pin. As always, Casio Customer Service is DISMAL at best. If you get a lemon, replace it with the seller right away for one that works 100% as advertised. Casio Customer Service depends on their products not failing -- and for the most part, when a Casio watch works AOK from Day One, it will continue to do so until you lose it or destroy it. Casio Customer Service has never ever "been there for me" and I have learned that lesson only too well.