DROK® LM2596 Analoger Steuer-Abwärtswandler DC-DC-Abwärtstransformator-Spannungsreglermodul 36 V 24 V 12 V bis 5 V 2 A Wechselrichter-Voltstabilisator mit roter LED-Anzeige Eingangs-/Ausgangsspannung der Voltmeterplatine

Brand:DROK

3.2/5

27.39

Parameter: Eingangsspannung: DC 4 ~ 40 V (die Eingangsspannung sollte mindestens 1 V höher als die Ausgangsspannung sein) Ausgangsspannung: DC 1,25 ~ 37 V (stufenlos einstellbar) Ausgangsstrom: 2 A (für stabilen Betrieb), 3 A max. Voltmeter: 0~40V Voltmeter-Genauigkeit: .+/-0,1V Interne Oszillationsfrequenz: 150KHz Auf der Rückseite befindet sich eine große Kupferfläche, um die Wärmeableitung zu verbessern. Wie stellt man die Genauigkeit der Eingangs-/Ausgangsspannung ein? (1) Kalibrierung der Ausgangsspannung Stellen Sie zunächst die rechte Taste so ein, dass die OUT-LED leuchtet und das Voltmeter den Wert der Ausgangsspannung anzeigt. Drücken Sie die rechte Taste länger als 2 Sekunden und lassen Sie sie los. Voltmeter und OUT-LED blinken synchron, sodass Sie in den Ausgangsspannungskalibrierungsmodus gelangen. Zweitens drücken Sie die rechte Taste (normale Geschwindigkeit), der Spannungswert wird um eine Einheit addiert; Drücken Sie die linke Taste, minus einer Einheit; Da eine Einheit weniger als 0,1 V beträgt, beträgt die Mindestspannungsanzeige 0,1 V. Sie müssen also 1 bis 5 Mal kontinuierlich drücken, um zu sehen, wie sich das Voltmeter um 0,1 V ändert. Wie oft ändert sich das Voltmeter um 0,1 V, wenn Sie die Taste drücken, je nachdem Je höher die Spannung, desto geringer die Anzahl der Tastendrücke. Drittens drücken Sie die rechte Taste länger als 2 Sekunden und lassen sie dann los, um den Ausgangsspannungskalibrierungsmodus zu verlassen. Alle Parameter sind auf automatisches Herunterfahren zum Speichern eingestellt. (2) Kalibrierung der Eingangsspannung Stellen Sie zunächst die rechte Taste so ein, dass die IN-LED leuchtet und das Voltmeter den Wert der Eingangsspannung anzeigt. Drücken Sie die rechte Taste länger als 2 Sekunden und lassen Sie sie los. Voltmeter und IN-LED blinken synchron, sodass Sie in den Eingangsspannungskalibrierungsmodus gelangen. Die Schritte 2 und 3 entsprechen der Methode zur Kalibrierung der Ausgangsspannung.

Drücken Sie die Taste 1 bis 4 Sekunden lang. Das Voltmeter wird ausgeschaltet, wenn Sie Ihre Hände loslassen. Das Voltmeter ist sehr genau. Mit Eingangs- und Ausgangsspannungsmessfehler-Kalibrierungsfunktion; Für die Verdrahtungsklemmen ist kein Lötkolben erforderlich und sie sind bequem zu verwenden. Drücken Sie die Taste neben dem Voltmeter, um die Eingangs- oder Ausgangsspannung zu testen. Grüne LED leuchtet beim Testen der Ausgangsspannung; Rote LED leuchtet beim Testen der Eingangsspannung. Verfügt über einen sehr stabilen Ausgang, der Eingangsbereich beträgt DC 4–40 V und der Ausgangsbereich beträgt DC 1,25–37 V. Bitte stellen Sie sicher, dass die Eingangsspannung mindestens 1 V höher als die Ausgangsspannung sein sollte. Kann für viele elektronische Projekte verwendet werden. Analoge Steuerung: Verwenden Sie einen Mini-Schraubendreher, um die Ausgangsspannung zu erhöhen oder zu verringern, indem Sie die Schraube im Uhrzeigersinn drehen, um die Spannung zu erhöhen, und gegen den Uhrzeigersinn, um die Spannung zu verringern.
Brand DROK
Country of Origin China
Current Rating 3 Amps, 2 Amps
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer No
Item model number 090118
Item Weight 0.02 Pounds
Manufacturer DROK
Package Dimensions 5.24 x 2.48 x 1.42 inches; 0.32 Ounces

3.2

12 Review
5 Star
62
4 Star
15
3 Star
7
2 Star
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12

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Scritto da: Wino
Typical DROK quality. well packaged. Great value.
I've used DROK to put usb charger ports in boats, bikes, house lamps and a car. The house lamp was the hardest; I used a power brick laying around, but fit was an issue. We added a 24x7 power port to a BMW whose 'smart bus' seemed designed to drain the batteries of all non-BMW branded devices. Wired directly off the battery to a DROK converter supplied port laying inside the (armrest) bin.. problem solved. The owner leaves his cellphone in the vehicle and uses the bluetooth link to the house phone. And the Buck converter, what I've noticed, at full charge it gets pretty warm, too warm to poke around with your finger checking how hot it is... so I added a heatsink to the chip and venting to the case. Supplying about 10W flat out, it is way cooler than I'd have believed. At maintenance charge it is essentially warm. These things are efficient! I don't notice a difference on my trike after a week leaving the power on to the (turned off) LED lighting. On bikes and boats worry about ventilation and waterproofing, as in both places nobody remembers to charge devices until they really need power. I've put in 5 of these and made portables for friends who want to be able to plug into 12v ports. We have yet to get a failure other than when I connected it so sadly wrong. I like the display because to me it's worth the price to be able to verify performance. It also means I can leave my DVM packed. The display is certainly accurate for its use, maybe 0.1V or so, and you can calibrate it if you want to feel better. This is not a laboratory supply; you don't get that for $10. I'm very happy with the value. In fact I worry a bit about the cutthroat Chinese business model. If they can resist the plunge to the bottom on pricing, certainly DROK could be another name like Westinghouse (etc.). It can take a while to get the order. I usually get it within 10 days or so, which is astonishing. Then (likely customs) happens, and it takes weeks. DROK supplier can hardly affect that, so be patient. A part order from Detroit to Louisville could take 5 days not that long ago.
Scritto da: TheBreadFamily
Great device
Used this in my ender 5 plus to power a new fan. New fan was 12 v this took 24 v and dropped it to 12 with adjustments.
Scritto da: heuristik
and was sure until today the potentiometer was bad. I couldn't get the output voltage to change
I've had the unit for a couple of weeks, and was sure until today the potentiometer was bad. I couldn't get the output voltage to change, no matter what combination of buttons and cranks on the dial I tried. Revisited the product page, thankfully the description is more helpful than I recalled. But in case you're having similar troubles, you might find these tips helpful: 1) If you are working with low voltage input, >12V for example, before you do anything else, turn the pot dial 10-12 times counter clockwise (use the little brass screw at the top, right from middle of the unit.) 2) Two buttons on this device as opposed to many of the similar types of buck converters available. This provides a different method for changing voltage, as a result. Flip the red light to the Out (right) side, hold the right button down for 2 seconds then release. The displayed voltage should be blinking. Now, the left button will reduce, the right button will increase the Output voltage. Note one click doesn't always change the display, though if you are connected to your multimeter you will notice it does indeed change the voltage... The sensitivity is a bit unpredictable, but just click-click-click to get to your intended value, eventually you'll reach it. 3) If you are dealing with very sensitive voltage level requirements, consider pre-setting the device for the intended values and then turning off the display by clicking the left button. The unit will save the values you set even after removing its power source. Thus far, been pleased (now that I know how to use it) with the results.
Scritto da: Rob
Seems stable
It didn't work for the first project I tried it on, stepping from 24V down to 5 was too much for it and it would overheat - even with a low amp load. Now using it to drop 9V down to 5 and it works great even with more load than before.
Scritto da: MadMatt
Reduced current at lower volts, but still great.
This is for the LM2596 step down DC to DC voltage converter with the LED display. Not for an adjustable current device. I purchased this device to drive glow heads on an old Cox glow engine that I was given. I use a 12V 5Ah SLA battery and intended to run this a 1.5V to light the glow head element. I found that it could only source about 1.75A at 1.5V, but I could increase the voltage until I got 2.5 to 3A through the glow head and it worked fine. This was at about 2.8V on the voltage display, which I did calibrate. I contacted DROK to ask about this performance and they confirmed that you can't get the full 3A rating at this low of a voltage. I don't mind running higher voltage as I just need a certain current to light the glow plug. But I though I would leave this information in case it helps someone else. A knowledgeable electrical person might have anticipated this performance, but it was a surprise to me. The product works well for me, seems well-assembled, and DROK customer service was prompt and knowledgeable. No complaints.
Scritto da: ben
Test them first with an inline fuse.
Make sure you bench test these before you install on anything important. 1 worked no issues the other had some sort of direct short after the cap and let all of the smoke out instantly. The one that does work works perfect and has been running for days nonstop controlling a small fan.
Scritto da: L. Mims
very pleased with this device
I'll upgrade my 4 star to 5 stars after a few months of use to make sure it works, but honestly this thing worked right off the bat, no problems. Checked against my multimeter, and the 24DC in comes out a smooth 11.96 (12DC) out. Even when the input jumps a little, the output is really solid, very pleased with this device. I'm using it to power a 12v CPU fan I'm using for cooling in a homemade audio amplifier. The amp runs on 24v so I needed to step down for the CPU fan.
Scritto da: Andy Bobandy
Works as Intended
There are cheaper options out there in bundles of mass production, however this one attracted me because of the voltage display on board - and its accurate. I took my voltmeter to the output end and the difference between my voltmeter and the onboard display was .02. Used this in my 3d printer to step down the voltage for my LED lights. Will buy more in the future as I build an enclosure, and I'll most likely stick to these if I add lights. If you plan on using a buck converter to step down voltage for Noctua fans on your 3D Printer, I suggest the bulk ones as they're smaller and will take up less room if you hide them with the motherboard, like on my Ender 3 V2.
Scritto da: Richard
Worked for My 3D Printer
This product was used to convert 24v to 12v for quieter noctua fans on my ender 3. It was easy to set up and worked as expected. This buck converter has less value for the money than other multi packs of more basic designs but is more use friendly for beginners.
Scritto da: Elephants Never Forget
Very useful if you get a working unit.
These are a bit hit and miss depending on the unit you receive. Mine came defective in that the display only partially lit up. Amazon took care of it though, with their excellent customer service. If you get a working unit it's a handy device to have. The voltage adjustment is small and fiddly but I built a wooden box for mine with a knob for adjusting the voltage and several different input and output connectors including a USB output socket for charging phones and power banks. I haven't noticed any voltage spikes on mine and it has been working really well for me. It's the cheapest variable power supply you can get and worth the $10 I paid. I use mine with an 18V solar panel so I can adjust the output voltage to whatever I need for a given device. It will also maintain a set output voltage regardless of fluctuations in the input voltage caused by clouds and varying sunlight levels, so it acts like a charge controller as well as a variable power supply - all in one tiny package.
Scritto da: Marc Mauger
Does what it's supposed to
Does exactly what it's supposed to. I checked the accuracy of the screen against my Multimeter and it checks out. Easy to use and install, so long as you have basic knowledge of electronics. If not, a quick YouTube search can help out.
Scritto da: MrButtons
If an electronics noob can do it, so can you!
First time doing an electronics project. I plugged the wires in, and it came up - what's more to say? It's been perfect to power my Raspberry Pi, and it couldn't be easier to hookup. As long as this review is 5 stars, you'll know it's still alive and kicking!

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