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Tjernlund Inline-Lüfter-Trockner-Kanal-Booster 4 Metall

Brand:Tjernlund

3.4/5

€
349.08

Dieser vielseitige und langlebige Inline-Abluftventilator aus 4 Metallen bietet eine hohe Luftbehandlungsleistung bei geringem Geräuschpegel und extrem geringem Stromverbrauch. Diese Lüfter- und Steuerungskombination kann verwendet werden, um diesen Lüfter zu aktivieren, wenn ein anderes Gerät, ein Lüfter oder ein anderes Gerät Strom erhält. Wird häufig für Kanalverstärker, Trocknerverstärkung, Gerätekühlung, Fabrikabgase und viele andere Anwendungen verwendet. Der Sun Court-Stromschalter ist so konzipiert, dass er 120-VAC-Geräte einschaltet, wenn er Strom erkennt und einspeist. Der Stromschalter ist gemäß UL 94-V0 hinsichtlich der Sicherheit und Entflammbarkeit von Kunststoffmaterialien für Teile in Geräten und Apparaten zertifiziert. Die Ausgangsschaltleistung beträgt 120 VAC mit einer Betriebsfrequenz von 45 Hz bis 65 Hz und die maximale Umgebungstemperatur beträgt 140 °F.

Keine Einheiten verfügbar

EAN: 0080956961785

Kategorien Geräte, Industrie & Wissenschaft, Großgerätezubehör, Trockner-Teile & Zubehör,

Verringert die Flusenbildung. Unkomplizierte Bedienung – automatisches Ein-/Ausschalten mit Trockner. Einfach zu installieren. Der Stromsensorschalter ist so konzipiert, dass er den Lüfter einschaltet, wenn er Strom zu einem anderen Gerät (Ihrem Trockner) erkennt. Wird häufig für Kanalverstärker, Trocknerverstärkung, Gerätekühlung, Fabrikabgase und viele andere Anwendungen verwendet.
Manufacturer Tjernlund
Package Dimensions 12.7 x 10.1 x 9.8 inches; 9.44 Pounds

3.4

6 Review
5 Star
72
4 Star
13
3 Star
5
2 Star
0
1 Star
10

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Scritto da: cd
Great fan, much quieter than I expected.
I bought this fan to place in the middle of a 20ft run of dryer duct work. My install took several days, because I wasn't just adding a fan but replacing existing duct work. The original ducting was 3x10 flat, so I replaced the majority of it with 4" rigid ducting and placed this fan in the middle of the run. I mounted the fan on a cross-brace I made out of some spare lumber, and used jointed connectors so I could get the fan above the drop ceiling in my basement. The included Current Sensing Switch was fairly easy to install and works like a boss. I wound up placing an outlet above the drop ceiling instead of hard wiring the fan to the switch. The fan is directly below my kitchen, but even when you're standing on top of the fan's location, you can barely hear it... even in the basement, the fan noise is minimal. I'm very happy with the product.
Scritto da: Pitafun
Great little machine but...
Great little machine but it's very sensitive to lint which will throw the blade off balance. It'll make vibration noise with very little little builds up. Had to clean it then add 2nd inline lint catcher right before the blower to solve the problem.
Scritto da: alex
It works !
this product does what it says it will does, hands down . Cut drying time in half
Scritto da: Dave Fredette
Be careful with the 'distance from drier' directives
This booster fan works great - until it doesn't. My dryer vent goes into the wall and straight up about 8 feet to the attic. Then it makes a 90 degree turn, a 2 foot run, another 90 degree turn, and then about a 12 foot run to the outside wall. I installed the unit about 4 feet down the long run, figuring that would be plenty of distance from the dryer. I saw somewhere on Tjernlund's own website that 90 degree elbows are equivalent to 5 feet of straight tube, so my calculations told me I was equivalent to at least 25 feet away. The booster worked fantastically for a few months, until a fin on the fan came loose and threw everything out of balance, killing the unit. After conversation with the vendor, (who told me the 8 foot vertical section 'didn't count') he said the dryer heat can gradually melt the epoxy used to glue the fins on. They were nice enough to send me another unit, which I installed about 5 feet further down the long run, putting it about 3 feet from the outside wall. Well, the new unit just failed on me, and I found another fin out of wack. Maybe this will work fine if your duct run is really long and you can install 30 or 40 feet away from your dryer, or maybe if I bought another 20 feet of tubing and a bunch of elbows and ran it around and around my attic some more first before it hits the booster unit. Right now I'm out almost $200 and a lot of time wasted crawling around in a cramped attic.
Scritto da: ep
Fantastic robust heavy duty machine!
We found ourselves living temporarily in a home that had already experienced several dryer duct lint fires. Examining the system, I found the dryer vent ran from the back of the machine, around one corner, several feet, around another corner, and then most of the way across the rest of the garage behind piles of stuff. And rather than a dryer vent flap, it dead ended against the hardware cloth baseboard vent. Not good. The standard, I believe, is 35 feet max, but each right angle counts for a number of feet, as does any other angle or impediment that constricts the duct. I wondered if such a thing as a dryer duct booster fan existed. It did! This unit comes with a a current sensing switch that allows the unit to be set up for automatic operation. Not being able to see the product photos when I ordered, I hoped that would be a simple thing that would clamp around the dryer power cord. It is not. It's a component that needs to be wired directly into the hot wire routed to the booster blower. It needs to be mounted in its own code-compliant junction box sealed off somewhere. Which leaves the question of how to wire it. SOME municipal code complexes allow you to mount the current sensing switch inside a junction box alongside two outlets and a breaker. The neutral from one outlet runs through two or three loops through the sensor -- two is enough to activate when the dryer spins, and three is enough to activate when the dryer door light goes on -- before it routes to the large blade in the outlet, and the switched output from the sensor runs through the breaker -- chosen to match the capacity of the switch -- before it runs to the hot small blade of the switched socket. You plug your dryer into the one socket and the blower into the second switched socket. Clean and easy. However, some municipal codes want you to hard wire the blower into a junction box, which means running a potentially unsightly conduit to and into the new box that houses the sensor and the dryer plug. This avoids the need for a breaker on the reduced current switched outlet however. Two considerations: first, if you put one of these in, don't cheap out and omit the separate filter box that shows up Frequently Bought With. That will help keep any blowby lint out of the booster. And there will be some, because this thing spins up a fierce suction and will pull every last loose bit of lint out of your dryer and old ductwork. Second, pay the electrician a little bit extra and have an on/off bypass switch installed that will allow you to run the booster at any time. It moves so much air that you can use it to evacuate foul smells or whatever from your laundry area.
Scritto da: Wendi
Great for those second floor dryers
We had been having issues with our dryer throwing codes for occlusion. Had the ducts cleaned and no help. Even got a different dryer and the same thing happened. Our dryer is on the second floor and after much research and fearing I was going to burn the house down we decided to give this a try. It worked! No more codes, no more numerous restarting the dryer to actually dry, and no more throwing money out the door for running the thing all day. My husband installed it quickly and it works like a charm. Quiet, too!

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